I have had a lot of people ask me this, that or the other regarding my Glocks, specifically how they are setup or how I “spec’ed” them out. The nice thing about a Glock is there’s not a lot you need to do to them out of the box. Yes, they are blocky, but there is nothing you can do about that. What you can do is work on the interface between the shooter and the gun. I don’t do much, but I do the same thing to each new Glock I add to the inventory.
An important note is that all these parts are drop in and shouldn’t require any smithing. It should go without saying, but I will say it anyhow. If you are not armorer qualified to work on your pistol, then find someone who is and always observe all safety and best practices.
I break it down into optimization for the slide and frame. The first thing I do to the frame is drop in a TangoDown slide stop and magazine release. Keep in mind that all my pistols are for duty or daily carry so I keep things low profile, snag free or more robust as a rule of thumb. These parts are designed with just the right angles to be easily accessible yet not overly protruding. I next replace the factory disconnector with a Ghost Ranger disconnector. At 4.5# it seems to be the perfect balance. You are not going to get rid of the “mushy” feel completely, that’s a Glock trigger, but this gives it a nice break. I’m a big fan of serrated triggers so for my full size duty pistols I replaced the stock flat trigger with the factory-serrated trigger. It gives me just enough tactile feel that I know exactly where my finger is on the trigger. Lastly, I install a grip plug from Pearce Grips. While it does have a slight slope to the magazine well, it mainly keeps debris from getting shoved up into the cavity.
On the slide, I start by replacing the factory sights with pretty much anything. Just about anything is better than the factory plastic sights and it is the single most common recommendation I make in classes. Sights are very personable, but I still favor the Heinie 3-dot tritium sights. The serrated front sight post along with a slightly wider rear notch give me a great sight picture. Accurate at distance and fast enough up close. I’m still playing with some other sights like the Trijicon HD sights, they are looking pretty good, but I still favor these bad boys for now. I opt to replace the factory captured recoil spring/guide rod with a traditional recoil spring guide rod and recoil spring. The recoil spring is one of the weak links in any modern semiautomatic pistol so replacing it at regular intervals is a must. While I’m at it I replace the firing pin spring with a heavy duty model. The last thing I do is drop in an all aluminum cover plate, while the factory plastic works, I like the added security of the aluminum. Plus, we have a pretty bad ass cover plate model available for purchase.
That’s pretty much it, a TRICON™ spec’ed out blaster as requested.